After years of development and stumbling blocks (including chef departure and temporary closure), this angel finally has its wings. Robert Butts shined as executive chef of Twisted Soul Cookhouse & Pours, but as he comes into his own here with Food Network Star winner chef Tregaye Fraser, he dazzles. Bold flavors that balance comfort and refreshment pop in seasonal mains like smoked lamb (using the historic smoker up front) with charred sweet potato, hot pepper jam, and collar chimichurri. Small plates pop with surprises, like the spicy finish in the foie-gras-roasted cauliflower with succotash emulsion, while pastry chef Megan Brent impresses with back-and-forth flavor plays of savory and sweet. Charcuterie lovers won’t want to miss the Thursday Grazing Hour, the city’s most impressive meat and cheese board.