This casual spot is well-camouflaged among the other stalls in the Atlanta Chinatown food court, but don’t let its genericism fool you — what’s cooking behind that counter stands out at first bite. At the counter, order flaky scallion pancakes, authentic Sichuan dry pot with beef, silky mapo tofu, chili crisp-drenched Master Dumplings, sweet and layered basil chicken, blistered dry-fried green beans, or an eggplant with garlic sauce that will send you to allium heaven (I drive from Marietta to Chamblee to get these dishes). But before anything else, snag a pastry and bubble tea from Hong Kong-style Family Baking just around the corner of the building for dessert.